First thing in the morning we caught my first tuk-tuk (a motorized tricycle with enclosed seats for a couple passengers) to the Jakarta train station. There we had nasi goreng, the traditional staple dish of fried rice for breakfast. The accompanying coffee, like all coffee in Indonesia, was made like camp coffee at home with a sludge of grounds in the bottom. Surprisingly, the train arrived early and left the station right on time. We were in Eksekutif (did you sound it out slowly?) class, which was clean and comfortable and provided plenty of personal space. Leaving the sprawling mega-city of Jakarta the big windows were filled with countless numbers of skyscrapers, and tin-roofed slums lined the river in some places. Out of the city the land was flat and open, allowing for long-ranging views which were another oddity after spending time in Nepal. We rode past miles of flooded rice fields being worked by hand and some sugar cane fields. Eventually the landscape became more hilly and forested and we saw many coconut trees and banana plantations. Seven hours later we arrived in the much more pleasant city of Yogyakarta, and I sampled chicken hearts, my first “meat on a stick” sold at street vendors everywhere. As the food was so varied, delicious and cheap in Yogyakarta we got into a habit of partaking in second suppers, dining at various street vendors where we could sit at low tables on the ground. Some of our favourites included crab, fried chicken (complete with the head), stewed jackfruit and spicy fish sauce called sambal. We also found another J.Co close by, and it became apparent we wouldn’t appear as though we had hiked through the Himalayas with heavy backpacks for much longer.